Iron Chef Michael Symon declares Belgrade Gardens chicken top of pecking order

CLICK IMAGE FOR MORE PHOTOS - Kosta Papich (right) the patriarch of family that operates Belgrade Gardens, cheers with his supporters during the filming of the great chicken battle of Barberton between White House Chicken and Belgrade Gardens for the Food Network show Food Feuds at Lake Anna Thursday in Barberton. (Karen Schiely / Akron Beacon Journal)

By Lisa Abraham
Beacon Journal food writer

Symon says: ”Belgrade Gardens.”

Iron Chef Michael Symon of Cleveland, host of the new Food Network show Food Feuds, was in town Thursday to answer the question that’s been debated locally for generations: Who has the best fried chicken in Barberton?

The show focused on Belgrade Gardens and Whitehouse Chicken, and taped segments at both restaurants on Wednesday, leading up to the finale at Lake Anna Park on Thursday.

Symon gave the honor to Belgrade Gardens, but both sides agreed afterward the city and all of its chicken houses were winners.

Symon based his decision on taste, technique and tradition. When it came to taste, Symon said, the two restaurants were tied, but he gave the nod to Belgrade for its technique of leaving the chicken in the fryer until it was darker brown and also for starting the chicken tradition; Belgrade Gardens was the first chicken restaurant in the city.

Milos Papich, whose grandparents, Mike and Smilka Topalsky, opened Belgrade Gardens in 1933, was overcome with emotion when Symon presented him with the trophy. He said the award represented years of hard work by three generations of his family.

His mother, Sophia Papich, said she was thinking of her mother, who began the tradition ”with a frying pan on a kerosene stove.”

Whitehouse owner Brian Canale said the city was the big winner: ”Nobody loses, everybody wins.” He said having Barberton get national exposure was the best part of the competition.

The city was ready for its close-up.

Hundreds of residents turned out at Lake Anna Park to watch the taping, which producers said was the largest crowd they have ever had for a show’s finale.

Food network celebrity and Cleveland chef Michael Symon looks on during the filming of the Food Network show Food Feuds at Lake Anna Thursday in Barberton. (Karen Schiely /Akron Beacon Journal)

The colorful crowd included Mayor Bob Genet, a man dressed in a chicken suit, another in a chicken hat, and students from St. Augustine School, dressed in their uniforms, carrying a sign that read, ”St. Augustine School [heart] Barberton Chicken.” The Barberton High School Musical Magics marching band played in their Barberton purple, and Symon jammed with the band for the cameras.

Band director Dan Fleischaker said he was excited that his students may end up on national television, and had just one regret — that the band didn’t have time to prepare the Chicken Dance song before the event.

Residents who came out for the taping got a lesson in Television 101. They watched patiently as Symon and crew repeated takes to deal with issues like sun, clouds and passing sirens, which affected the lighting and sound and caused delays.

On Wednesday, Symon spent time at both restaurants watching employees prepare their chicken and taste-testing. He also met with a group of Barberton firefighters to learn a bit more about the chicken.

Firefighters Neil Morgan and Duane Milford said Symon was interested in the history of the chicken and its importance to the community. Morgan noted how the chicken was introduced by Serbian immigrants. Milford, who had worked at both restaurants, said it is hard to pick a favorite.

They also talked to Symon about the chicken back — a decidedly Barberton cut of meat — in which the backbone of the chicken is cooked with meat from the breast and thighs still attached. Barberton is one of the few places where chicken is cut up to include the back as a separate piece.

”He said the backs are his favorite piece,” Morgan said.

The show is expected to air in November.

The Food Feuds crew is to be in Akron and Green today taping a battle between Swensons and Skyway Drive-In over who has the better burger.

The burger finale is to be taped in High Bridge Glens Park, 1817 S. Front St., Cuyahoga Falls, on Saturday. The taping is expected to take place at 2:30 p.m., but setup may be earlier.

See more pictures here

Lisa A. Abraham can be reached at 330-996-3737 or labraham@thebeaconjournal.com.